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Written by Mehjabeen Rahim   
Bismillahi ta’ala,

The-Glowing-campus-of-the-Jamia-by-night
The Glowing campus of the Jamia by night
As I embarked on my Emirates flight to Imam Khomeini airport (Tehran) from London Heathrow with my family, it suddenly struck me that I’ll be with them only for the next 14 days and then it will be just me, on my own in Qum, Iran. Although I had been there a couple of years ago for a short summer course the feeling this time was distinctly different, as for the first time I was leaving home for more than just a few weeks.

It was after the summer course that I made the intention to take a gap year after my A levels and spend a year in Jamiatuz Zahra seeking further knowledge about Islam and spiritual upliftment.

 

Setting foot in Iran, the experience was superb and unique in that two weeks prior to my admission date were all spent in Ziyarat in Tehran, Mashad and Qum with my family. This was a great start as it immediately brought back that feeling of belonging in a shia country with so many spiritual and holy sites. However there was a downside to this perfect start in that the fortnight passed away in a flash of a moment and soon the time came to part the comforting company of my beloved family.

Jamia-from-my-balcony
Jamia from my balcony
Through the arrangements made by Agah Shomali and Agha Musavi in the administration wing in Jamiatuz Zahra, I was allowed a settling in period while my family was still in Qum. This allowed me to visit them and them to visit me and this cushioned the blow of separation from my family.

There I was at the tender age of 17 facing this magnificent, beautiful yet overwhelming complex called Jamiatuz Zahra. As I entered through the tall gates of what is also known as the house of lady Fatematuz Zahra a sense of pride and joy seeped through my heart as I was now blessed enough to not only be an invitee but also one of her students.

 

Jamia’s-mini-swimming-pool
Jamia’s mini swimming pool
The campus was a large hexagonal building with four quarters named after four great women in Islam, Hajar, Maryam, Asia and Amina. These quarters were bordered with elegantly architectured balconies which were towered by a mosaic tiled roof in which ayats of the Quran were engraved. In the centre of this magnificent building was a eye catching and rather spacious fountain, also known as the mini swimming pool. This was surrounded by marble and segments of flower gardens and smaller fountains, also known as mini paddling pools!

Just about overcoming the magnanimity of the campus and the fact that it was entirely all-girls, therefore no Hijab was required, I stepped into my allocated room to find my new room mates and of course my new bed. As I attempted to open my suitcase in order to settle in a group of students came to greet me and welcome me, these were the Khoja students of Jamia. After a good laugh about how we all ended up being related somehow I attempted once again to unpack and before I knew it another few students filtered through the room, these were all the English speakers from across the globe mainly America and soon we were settling who came from the best nation. I decided to get down to unpacking but before I could reach for my bags I was greeted by many other students who couldn’t speak English and thanks to my language skills in Urdu, Gujarati, French and Kachi I was able to communicate and acquaint myself easily.

Furushgah
Furushgah
So already my friendship circle had increased drastically within the space of a couple of hours and continued to do so. Within a couple of days, I had sisters from not only Iran, and U.K, but also USA, Dubai, Turkey, Malaysia, Pakistan, India, Africa, Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Lebanon, and yes believe it or not China as well!

After having finally unpacked, and this took a considerably long amount of time than expected, surprisingly I still had a week until classes would start and so I started doing my own research by exploring the university and its library. Coming out of the campus round the corner I spotted a rectangular building with a sheltered seating area. I entered the building to find a colourful and overfilled tuck shop. Not only did this tuck shop have the normal snacks, drinks and sweets but a whole range of products from tinned food and crockery to washing powder and hangers! This tiny room that stocked all of life’s material essentials was known as ‘furushgah’.    

sheltered-picnic-area
sheltered picnic area
Equipped with snacks and drinks I continued my tour. Just like the campus, the university building and library were exquisitely architectured with a continuation of the garden and fountain theme. I was amazed with the calm and peaceful surrounding this institute had. The classrooms had  a basic layout with marble floors and a blackboard each and there were three blocks each having four floors of these. The library also had four floors. In the basement there was a row of desks behind which learned Alima’s and Mujtahida’s sat answering the helpline. This was setup in order to help answer any fiqh masa’il or Islamic questions or even general personal issues. One to one sessions with these learned women were also available for students.


The-library-building
The library building
There was then the first floor of the library which was a large hall in which events and functions would take place. For example on auspicious occasions classes would be cancelled and every student would then gather in this hall to attend either a lecture by a renowned scholar, a jashn (celebration) or azadari (mourning) ceremony. I found these gatherings very moving as I have not heard of any other university in which students all come together and put aside what they are doing in remembrance, praise and love for the Ahlulbayt.  

A-drinking-fountain-at-the-university
A drinking fountain at the university
The remainder of the library consisted of an impressive array of books and study tables. There was also IT facility and a section of the library was dedicated to tittles in different languages as the majority of them were in Farsi.

During my self guided tour of the university I came to know from the head of the Farsi department that many of the new comers had not yet arrived and that the beginners classes would start once there are enough people. This was quite a disappointment, Farsi was a six month course and I knew I had limited time here. I decided to buy my books in advance and start reading in the campus. Alhamdulilah I was able to complete the first two books independently with the help of some senior students. And after having given the exams I was then able to join a class who were studying the third book.

The classes were a whole new experience for me as having a teacher who was of the same faith as me and being able to discuss religion and learn more about Islam was a very unique bonus, something I would not have thought to find in a language class. However the beauty of the Hawza teaching methods is the way all things are brought back to Allah and the Aimah Tahireen. For example I remember on the day of  Imam Ali’s shahadaat the lesson started with masaib, creating a spiritual atmosphere in the classroom. We were then given the task to say a few words in Farsi about Imam Ali and his teachings. Not only did this teach us to exercise our Farsi vocabulary wider but also expanded our research into Islamic history. Many of our lessons and texts from the syllabus were Islamic based and therefore we were taught Farsi accompanied with Islamic knowledge.  

Another unexpected feature of the classroom was that we were taught Farsi in Farsi! At first I thought the harder I stare at the teacher the clearer the lesson will become! However, it was all about figuring out where words were to be used and practicing them in the right context. It was here where I realised how much campus life with international students was so beneficial as for many Farsi was the only means of communication. Thus as time went on I found myself picking up Farsi quicker and quicker as I had the opportunity to practice on campus.


A-language-study-room-with-reference-books
A language study room with reference books
Campus life was very social yet studious and spiritual as not only would we have discussion groups with senior students but every activity we would carry out would ultimately be linked and related to Allah and the Ahlul bayt. For example we would have dinner over an intriguing discussion or breakfast during revision. Sports was also very popular amongst the students as we had volleyball and table tennis facilities. Also, the spacious complex was at times used for football, badminton and most famously cricket whereby the standard wheelie bin substituted the stumps! My favourite though, would be our regular jogs and walks around the spacious complex while simultaneously listening to Dua’s or other recitations.

At-the-front-of-a-classroom
At the front of a classroom
The university would also have a schedule of recitation of its own that would be projected on the loudspeakers so we could all hear them. This is one my fondest memories as I remember standing on the balcony glaring at the vast skies and the surrounding Quranic mosaic while the beautiful recitation of dua Ahad at sunrise and dua Samaat on Friday sunset would echo around the campus.

The-scenic-Jamia-campus-at-dawn
The scenic Jamia campus at dawn
On campus in order to make use of my time I would arrange and attend various study circles with senior students as well as new comers in order to discuss various issues as well as get a range of personal experiences. I soon learnt that these experiences were key to note as I had limited time and would have to learn from others experiences in order to progress.

I felt Spirituality in Iran was most effective, moving and life changing. The entire approach to Islam in Iran was through deep love, passion and communication with  Allah and our Aimah. I first witnessed this approach to Islam when I was blessed enough to be present in Qum for the23rd of Ramadan, laylatul Qadr. There were many A’maal programmes taking place at various locations and times around Qum. So after having discussed the different opportunities with senior students I decided to visit the Harram and Musallah for my A’mal nights. The experience I had was unimaginable, unexplainable and somewhat out of this world. It was as though I had entered a different realm. The mosque was filled with a sea of black chadors all hands were raised to the sky, and all voices were united in imploring the one and only. It was at this scene that I learnt spirituality is something that is untaught and something that is strongly felt and experienced. I believe Iran is a great place for this.

Masjid-al-Jamkaran
Masjid al Jamkaran
Alongside the impactful spiritual timetable was also the academic curriculum. Alhamdulilah due to my short stay I was privileged to access classes of my choice and select subjects from the upper years. Leaving me with a flexible and enjoyable personal timetable which included key subjects such as Akhlaq, Ahkam, Aqaid and Quran as well as subjects I had a keen interest in such as Philosophy and Sahife Sajjadiya.

Image
English language in Iran was at premium demand amongst non-eng speaking staff and students. I soon found myself drafted into teaching English during my free hours as well as helping out in clerical and admin tasks requiring English in the principles office.  

The structure of the Jamia itself was a very warm and unique one in the sense that everyone would be united under the umbrella of love for the Ahlul bayt and the determination to achieve closeness to Allah (swt). The unity between the students regardless of ethnicity and cultural backgrounds was eminent in the Jamia. However I have to mention the British, Pakistani and Indian stuck to their own teams when it came to playing cricket! The diversity enabled me interact and network with students from all over the world. The multicultural atmosphere had so much to give that as well as teambuilding, sports, cooking and language skills I can proudly say I have also acquired the skill of eating successfully with Chinese chopsticks!

Study-hall-for-group-discussions-in-the-campus
Study hall for group discussions in the campus
The unity, love and respect for each other in the Jamia was such that we all lived as one big family and hence addressed fellow senior colleagues with the title of sister. Also the female principles, respected ladies who assisted in cleaning, cooking and medical care were called ‘Maadar’ the Farsi term for mother. But not only was this term used within the Jamia for the ladies but also for the mother of all the students of Qum, the mother for all the daughters of every region, the beloved mother, ‘Madarejaan’ Hazrate Fatema Masuma.

The most satisfying and heart lifting advantage of living in Iran was the effortless and reachable access to the Harram and Jamkaran. It was an amazing feeling to be blessed enough to not have to buy a ticket or arrange in advance to do the Ziyarat of our beloved Hazrate Fatema Masuma and to visit the holy mosque of Jamkaran. It felt so comforting to know that whenever I missed family, or had pressures of work there was always the shelter of mercy of the Aimah to seek refuge in and intercession through. It was the feeling of just being able to step out of worldly worries and enter the peaceful and holy Harram that I can never forget. The upliftment I got when entering the marble courtyard and looking up and watching the pigeons circumambulate the magnificent golden dome is a vision that will always remain . Nor can I ever forget the awing emotion of realising the closeness of our Imam Mahdi, the fact that everyday we are in his presence and that he is by our side providing support and guidance through the journey of life.

HARRAM-OF-HAZRATE-FATEMA-MASUMA-(a.s)
HARRAM OF HAZRATE FATEMA MASUMA (a.s)
This constant reliance, faith and trust that is built between you and the Aimah Tahireen. I believe it is this connection that enables anyone to get through the thick and thin of life wherever you are.

Alas, the time arrived to pack my bags and with a heavy heart it was that I had to say farewell to my beloved mother. I left Qum with a clear message in my mind that learning was the first stage and the real jihad would be to apply this in my daily life.
I had this optimism in me that I would be sure to come back and never keep away from this place for long.

The-zarih-inside-the-Haraam-of-Hazrate-Fatema-Masuma
The zarih inside the Haraam of Hazrate Fatema Masuma
Alhamdulilah this was the case as I was soon offered the great opportunity to accompany the Madinatul ilm and Babul ilm group as a mentor. I therefore would like to thank the Islamic Education Board of the World Federation for their support not only during my gap year but also giving me this opportunity. Having the IEB office in Qum was always a great help and I pray that I get another invitation from Hazrate Masuma to further my knowledge and impart this.  

 

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